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Target Corporation recently renounced casual attire as an acceptable form of dress among its employees. While the policy change received wide attention, the company’s logic for doing so has not (the company did not comment on the subject to the press). Neither has the irony: The only clothing you can buy at Target is casual. Target recently sold Marshall Fields, where its employees can buy formal clothing, to the May Corporation.

Maybe it was to avoid a conflict of interest.

My personal opinion, supported by not much more than my own judgment and experience, is that when business executives have enough time on their hands to worry about whether some programmer is wearing a tie, or an accounting clerk’s shoes are open-toed, the company is badly overstaffed … in the executive ranks.

I’m not entirely alone, either: Another Minnesota-based company that’s enjoyed at least a modicum of success has taken the opposite tack: General Mills spokeswoman Mary Beth Thorsgaard was quoted as saying, “We tell people to dress for their day. Any questions about what is accepted should be directed to a manager, but people are getting the concept.”

It’s also worth noting that Microsoft, which some folks think has performed fairly well, does not require its employees to wear suits.

The Business Research Lab cites several benefits for moving to business casual, all messages from management to staff:

  • Flexibility on the part of management.
  • A willingness to do things the “new way.”
  • Management does not seek to “control” employees.
  • There is a system of promotion in place that does not favor those who have had the good fortune to be born in the more affluent classes.

It appears The Business Research Lab advocates a casual approach to parallel construction as well as business attire, but the points it makes are nonetheless well-taken.

The last is particularly noteworthy. Anyone can dress neatly, but formal business attire reinforces a caste system with two sources. First, those raised in affluence had good clothing in their childhood wardrobes and learned early to dress well. And second, the well-to-do, among them a company’s executives, can afford higher-quality suits.

It’s commonplace for business executives to complain that employees “naturally” resist change, ignoring the extent to which they resist change themselves. Resistance to casual attire in the workplace is a notable example. It’s hard to avoid wondering if one reason so many executives find this change disconcerting is that it symbolically reduces their elevated status.

The executive preference for necktie-wearing is surprising, too. More business executives are politically conservative than liberal. The French opposed the war in Iraq. Ever since, political conservatives have derided all things French, and the necktie is a French invention, so you’d think necktie-burning would have become a conservative cause celebre (if you’ll forgive my French).

Instead, many and perhaps most business executives have been grudging in their acceptance of this trend. Many, for example, discuss casual, sloppy, and revealing attire as if they were the same — possibly a symptom of simple confusion, but just as likely a rhetorical ploy intended to discredit the first by linking it with the second and third.

Certainly, revealing attire is distracting and unprofessional and has no place in most work environments (those where it is appropriate are outside the scope of this column). And while sloppy attire is generally unacceptable, there are exceptions. If you don’t think so, you haven’t come in on a weekend to help pull cable and move equipment.

Business casual is neither sloppy nor revealing. It’s just casual. Does it confer an advantage, a disadvantage, or some of each? The only hard evidence I’ve been able to find is that the longest economic expansion in history occurred as U.S. businesses relaxed their dress codes. Does that mean the move to business casual should get the credit? Of course not, but if casual dress reduces productivity, business productivity shouldn’t have increased, should it?

There have been studies. The evidence on either side is, however, shaky, as both sides of the debate rely, so far as I can tell, on nothing more than survey data. The result is neither more nor less reliable than the average bias of those surveyed.

In the absence of reliable evidence, my best advice is this: Be a leader, not a fashion consultant. Your job is to focus employees on what they’re supposed to accomplish, not on how they’re supposed to dress.

ManagementSpeak: Let’s get together to review the task list I asked you to write up.

Translation: Come to my office so I can tell you how you’re going to do it.

Today’s entry comes from “Bob,” … no, a different Bob … from something that happened a long time ago in IT shop far, far away.